Friday, August 29, 2008

Log 24; Day 100; August 29, 2008; Kimmswick, IL.

Log 24
Day 100
Friday, August 29, 2008

5:45 AM CDT
Location: Kimmswick, MO.
Weather: 70* with 76% humidity; no wind...predicted to be 88 today with a 30% chance of rain.

A barge came by last night at 2:13 and almost knocked Deb and I out of the bed. Well maybe not knocked us out...but woke us up very quickly. Another one came by at 4:12 and did the same thing. I went back to sleep after that...but did not sleep very well. Finally got up at about 5:30 and will have to make this log short because we will be leaving at first light. Just as I write this there are two barges passing out in the Mississippi so I’m sure the boat will be rockin’ in a couple of minutes. Also I won’t be sending any pictures today, because the Verizon signal is not strong enough, or fast enough to get that done in a reasonable amount of time.


Yesterday we ended up going 40 miles from Alton, IL to Hoppies Marina in Kimmswick MO. Hoppies is a very unique spot. It has been run by Hoppie and Fern for who knows how many years (lots...they are probably 75 or 80 years) and they run it their way. It is nothing more than a couple of barges tied together just off the Mississippi River channel (which is why you get rocked by barges going by) at MM158.5 but everyone stops here because it is the only place to tie up between Alton and Green Turtle Bay...a distance of 240 miles. The only other option is to anchor...and we will be doing that the next two nights. It is about 1 mile to Kimmswick...a very small town know for it’s antiques and one great restaurant called the Blue Owl. I walked up the hill at the marina to a couple of elderly gentleman sitting on chairs just looking out at the river (assuming they were locals and knew everything) and asked them how far it was to town...and was there a place where Deb and I could go in and have a beer. It took them about 10 minutes to tell me this, but the quick summary is...the town is only 4 blocks square; it only has one restaurant (Blue Owl); but hell...they only open from 10 to 3; used to be 4 taverns and a pool hall...all closed; town says they have 150 people...but if you took a census I’ll bet there is less than 100. When I asked why things were getting smaller and changing they said “folks died...and some moved away...and the town is too dam political”. So there you have it...the story of Kimmswick, MO. Does anyone wonder why we are only staying one night?

Today we plan to go 110 miles to a little river/creek just down river from Cape Girardeau, MO. It is called the Little Diversion channel to folks running the river and it’s one of the only places to safely stop for the night between here and the mouth of the Tennessee River...over 200 miles from here. So I need to top off the water tanks (so well have water for the next two nights) and head out. It’s 6:15 now and starting to get light. Looks like a good day for cruising.

I’ll keep you posted.

BK.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Log 23; Day 99; August 28, 2008; Alton, IL.

Log 23
Day 99
Thursday, August 28, 2008

5:20 AM CDT
Location: Alton, IL.
Weather: 72* with 70% humidity; no wind...predicted to be 91 and sunny today with a 50% chance of rain tonight.

Up at 4:45 this morning in order to be prepared to leave early...plus I just love this time of morning sitting on the back of the boat. One of the first things I did was call lock #27 to see how things were going and if they could lock us through. I reached a very nice lady who said to come on down...it might be slow going, but we would get through. Which is what I hoped for because they have been working on that lock and only using the small chamber (these locks have 2 chambers, one big one and one small one...different from most locks on the great loop). So that is good news for us.

Yesterday we had a lazy day. Deb went to the botanical garden with her cousin Karen and I worked on a few boat projects. After doing outside cleaning, I did some caulking on a hardtop leak we are dealing with. Not a big deal...just a drip, that is a pain, and I have been trying to locate the source of the problem. I also went in the engine room and checked all fluid levels and gave everything a good inspection. (I don’t check the fluids as often as some say you should (which is daily) because this does not make sense to me. Who checks their car fluids each day, or before each use? If the temperatures are all normal; the engines are running fine and no smoke; and there are no fluids under the engines then my theory is that the fluid levels should be fine, and a daily check is not necessary). After that it was about 11 and I decided to take a walk into Alton and find a cheeseburger. I talked to a local and he pointed me to a “billiards bar” that was about a 20 minute walk. It turns out they had a $1 cheeseburger special (1/2# that was good) so I had that and walked back to the boat. Deb got back to the boat about 3 from her trip with Karen and we decided to head over to Fast Eddies. This is a local tradition and quite a place. It’s like going back in time because the place has not changed in years...lots of years. In fact, the food prices are the same as they were when they first started serving food over 15 years ago. $1 cheeseburgers; 29 cent shrimp; 99 cent French fries. We had chicken on a stick (7 chicken wings) for $2.29 and beef tenderloin on a stick (6 big pieces with green peppers) for $2.29. We were stuffed and spent less than $8 on food. The beers were $2.75 a piece...so even that was not bad. All in all a great stop...and we walked back to the boat (a 30 minute walk) to help digest the dinner.

Today the plan is to leave the slip about 7 and go a little over a mile to the first lock (Mel Price). Then we head right through St. Louis and right next to the arch. The next lock is about 14 miles south (lock #27...the one they are working on). Our destination is Hoppie’s Marine Service at mile marker 158.5 near Kimmswick, MO. This is a very unique stop, which I’ll describe in more detail tomorrow...assuming we can get internet service because we are going to be in the middle of no where for a few days now.

Well it’s starting to get light out now, and the sun will soon be coming up, so I need to end this log and get the boat ready to leave the dock and go into the lock. While I have been writing this I have been monitoring the lock traffic on the VHF radio and I think we will be able to go right in as traffic seems very light. Let’s hope so.

I’ll keep you posted.

BK.


A local hero in Alton...this is a lifesize statue of him...over 9 feet tall.
The outside of Fast Eddies...the place was originally owned by Budweiser and called Bon Air
The highlight inside is the kitchen...right out in the open of the bar.


Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Log 22; Day 98; August 27, 2008; Alton, IL.

Log 22
Day 98
Wednesday, August 27, 2008

6:40 AM CDT
Location: Alton, IL.
Weather: 67* with 67% humidity; no wind...predicted to be 87 and sunny today

Beautiful morning. If you click here it will take you to google maps and our exact location in Alton, IL. We are sitting almost directly under what is marked Clark Bridge on the map. The picture below is a shot of that bridge last night. I never knew I would be interested in a bridge...but this one is huge and very pretty (can a bridge be pretty?). And it happens to be right out the back of our boat so I am staring at it right now. Also in the google maps you will see the lock about 1 mile to our south. That’s the first thing we need to do...tomorrow.

Yesterday was a very easy cruising day. After a very nice early morning breakfast (I have eaten rasin bran and sliced peaches for the last 2 days so I’m feeling pretty good about myself) I wiped down the boat and got it looking great. After Deb enjoyed breakfast...a chapter in her book...and a few emails, she vacuumed the inside of the boat and made sure everything was ready for cruising (all drawers closed and locked and things put away so would not fall). All of this and we untied the lines at 9:15. I have been at this spot on the river (where the Illinois meets the Mississippi) a few times but each time it is very special. It is very wide here (see picture and size of hills in relation to the truck) and you know you have just traveled the entire Illinois River system and are about to join one of the largest rivers in the US. As wide, and as deep, and as well marked as it is at this point I always am more cautious for a while for some reason. It feels new and strange and I keep thinking I’m going to hit something. The good news is this feeling goes away in a few miles...and we had no trouble at all.

After a short 17 mile trip we pulled into Alton Marina at 11:30. I decided to get fuel (100 gallons) and we were in our slip about noon. There have been rumors about low water here...but I never showed anything less than 6 feet...and we have 8 feet at the dock we’re at. They planned on putting us under a covered slip (lots of them in the South) but I asked if they had cable TV at the dock and they said no...so I asked them to put us on a T dock (at the end of a normal dock is called the T) so we could use our satellite TV on the boat (won’t work under a cover because it can’t find the satellite). After lunch on the boat Deb and I took a walk and checked out the marina. Great place with almost new covered docks and very clean. Everything is floating...including a nice pool and the main office...which has a deli and store in it. At 4:00 Deb’s cousin and husband (Karen and Dale) came to the boat for a short visit. They live about 20 minutes from Alton...and it was nice to see them. After they left we had a nice salad for dinner (seems like I’m eating healthy...but not really) and watched Closer on TV. It was a great day...nothing special...but great none the less.

Today Deb is going with her cousin Karen to the botanical gardens somewhere in this area. She’ll be leaving in a few minutes and plans to be back later this afternoon. I plan to work on my boat list this morning and then this afternoon we plan to head into Alton to check out the sights. Actually we plan on heading to a place called Fast Eddies...a bar and grill that is somewhat of a legend in this area. Everyone who we tell we are stopping in Alton says we MUST see Fast Eddies. I’ll give a report tomorrow if it is worth the hipe. Sun is up over the bridge now and looking great. Promises to be a great day...guess I better get doing something constructive.

BK.

BK; Karen; Dale; and Deb
The Clark Bridge just behind our boat
Hills on the side of the Mississippi River just south of Grafton, IL.
Our Lady of the River Statue along the river.



Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Log 21; Day 97; August 26, 2008; Grafton, IL.

Log 21
Day 97
Tuesday, August 26, 2008

6:20 AM CDT
Location: Grafton, IL.
Weather: 67* with 65% humidity; NE winds at 9...predicted to be 84 and sunny today


Lunch at the bar next to the flea market.
The floating pool at Grafton Harbor...nice stop
Sunset last night. Red sky at night...sailors delight.
It is predicted to be sunny today...but lots of clouds right now. I went out side a few minutes ago and it was a little chilly, but felt great. I’ve been watching the weather channel this morning and hurricane Fay is really dumping the rain on Tennessee and Alabama. Good news for us because these water levels were really low and this should help us as we go down the Tombigbee Waterway later this fall. The water levels on the Illinois and Mississippi seem to be stable the last couple of days which is also good for us. The locals at Grafton say they never remember the water being this low, and it is causing several of the tows to have a problem because they are running aground. I have called the next two marinas we are going to and I don’t think low water will be an issue for us.

Yesterday was just one of those lazy days when you’re cruising. In the morning Deb worked on keeping up with our banking and paying the bills. I cleaned all the isinglass and worked on a couple of small projects. I also spent time planning our itinerary for the next month or so, and made some reservations at marinas. At lunch Deb and I walked back to the area where they had the flea market the day before. The good news was (for me) the flea market was not there (must only be there on weekends) but the bar and grill right there on the water was. So we split a cheeseburger and had a beer for lunch (you can see in the picture the smiles on our faces...must be enjoying it). After lunch I went back to the boat to keep working on our cruising plans and also get the marina to pump out the holding tank, and Deb went into town to get some fresh sweet corn...which we had with BLT’s for dinner.

Since we have been in this marina 3 or 4 “loopers” have come in...so folks are starting to head south. Except for one couple (Peaceful Day) in a beautiful 40’ Tiara who are heading north. He found out we were heading south, so he come over to our boat to ask me a few questions about the trip north. I spent about 30 minutes with him explaining about the different things to watch out for and the things not to miss. Really nice guy, but I was surprised that he planned to go all the way to the Trent Severn in Canada yet this summer/fall and then back down through New York and to Florida. He has a fairly fast boat (cruises at 28 mph) but the rule of thumb (as told by seasoned loopers) is to be heading south by early September and many say leave Chicago after Labor Day. He will just get to Chicago by Labor Day...and heading north. I would think it will be pretty cold in Canada and the Northern parts of the East coast before he gets out of there. Heading South sounds better to me at this point.

Today is planned to be an easy cruise. We plan to leave the dock between 9 or 10 and head 15 miles south to the Alton Marina. The only question I am dealing with is where to get fuel. I believe in supporting the marina’s we stay in, but the fuel costs can be very different. Grafton Harbor is $4.37; Alton Marina is $4.30; and Hoppies is $4.76. I think I’ll just get some at Alton...and then top off at Hoppies before heading further south.
BK.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Log 20; Day 96; August 25, 2008; Grafton, IL.

Log 20
Day 96
Monday, August 25, 2008

6:40 AM CDT
Location: Grafton, IL.
Weather: 62* with 83% humidity with light NNE winds...82* and 20% chance of rain predicted today.

Here is a shot from the back or our boat this morning in Grafton Harbor...just before the sun came over the hills. That's the Mississippi River in the distance.


I know I mentioned this before but the view off the back of our boat is really cool. I’m looking due East...I can’t see the sun yet...but there is this beautiful “glow” of the sun behind the hills (I’ve included a picture I just took, but it does not do it justice). It’s a little cool out, so I turned on the heater in the helm area and it’s a perfect 72* inside. The morning is awesome, and the coffee’s tasting great. I’m only going to give a short update this morning because I am going to include “Deb’s 2 cents”. People have asked for Deb to chime in on these updates...so she is going to do so.

Navigation note: I’ve mentioned I keep track of river heights “called stages” along the waterways we travel because it can really effect where we stop. Well I have been tracking this (every day) since June 24th when the Mississippi had all that rain and terrible flooding. Anyway...the river stage in St. Louis during that time was 38.57 at it highest point (flood level is 30.00 and the highest ever recorded was in 93 when it got to 49.58) today that same river stage is 4.15...and predicted to drop even more. On August 2nd the river stage was 30.66...it has dropped over 26 feet in a little over 3 weeks. Amazing.

Yesterday was a lazy day on HQ. It was not a travel day so we were in no hurry to get going. Deb made pancakes and bacon (one of my favorite breakfasts) and after breakfast we cleaned up the boat because we did not do that on Saturday. About 11 we walked into Grafton...a short walk...and looked at all the local establishments. Grafton is a small river town and has definitely decided to cater to the boaters and people who enjoy the river. Small craft shops, and restaurants all along the water. I even went with Deb to a flea market just down the street. I didn’t last long...maybe Deb will go back today. They do have an outside bar that sits right in front of the flea market...and right on the river...so maybe I’ll walk with her. After lunch we bought fresh catfish (which Deb cooked for dinner) and came back to the boat. I watched the NASCAR race I had recorded the night before, and Deb went to the marina pool. During our catfish dinner we watched the movie “Shooter”...and I made it all the way to 9:30 before going to bed (must have been the nap during the NASCAR race).

Today we really have no plans. I keep a list of items I want to do to the boat...so maybe I’ll work on that. Also maybe walk back into town and check more things out. Heartland Boating Magazine had an article on Grafton in it’s latest issue and Deb and I read it last night...so she has some ideas of places to go (although I really think we saw everything yesterday)

Tomorrow we plan to travel a short 15 miles to Alton, IL and spend 2 nights there.

So much for my update...here is “Deb’s 2 cents”...

Here is how Deb spend some of here time while we are cruising along...sitting out front reading here book.
Saturday, 8/23/08
Hey All!
It’s Saturday night, 10:15 pm and BK’s in bed. There are several kinds of music blaring from different boats in the covered dock that we are tied to and cocktails are being passed around. While Bob has always enjoyed the early morning quiet of the marina to update the web page and plan his day, I like the evening marina noises and sitting up top to people watch…which is what I’m doing right now! I thought this would be a good time to take a few minutes to add my 2 cents to BK’s daily logs. (I love laptops!)
We are finally on our way south again after spending a wonderful summer in Ottawa. It’s hard to believe that we pulled into Heritage Harbor on June 2nd and it’s already the middle of August! When we came to Heritage Harbor it looked a lot like a construction zone…dump trucks, cement trucks, gravel trucks, landscapers, people building docks, planting trees, seeding hillsides. Now, after only 2 ½ months, there’s a new pavilion, a sand volleyball area, beautiful landscaping and even grass! They’re putting in the infrastructure for the housing area and I they’re going to start the hotel & conference center this fall. Things are moving along quickly! Everyone there was so helpful to us and we can’t wait to see what the Harbor looks like in a couple years when we get back!
The weather started out a little funny in June...lots of wind (I hate the wind!) and a few weird storms, but then it settled into a hot and sunny couple of months...perfect for water fun! There were lots of people around with boats (sisters, brother, niece, friends), so there was always something happening on the river! Beccah, Jeff & the kids made the hour and a half drive quite a few times to play on the river with Grandma & Grandpa K. Both grandkids are 11 years old now and true water rats...we love it! We packed a lot in during our stay…boating, fishing, swimming & hanging with family & friends…(not to mention, Bianchi’s pizza, Polancic’s tenderloins, and Tones Cones!) We had our truck and our 21' Boston Whaler with us while we were in Ottawa and so had wheels on land for groceries & laundry, and a fun small boat to use while we were there.
We also squeezed in a family vacation in July, renting a houseboat on Kentucky Lake for a week with the kids and grandkids. The weather was hot enough to keep us all in the water pretty much all the time and we got the kids on a double tube that was a blast! They bounced off, rolled off, and slid off so many times I thought they'd get discouraged, but they always came up coughing and sputtering, with huge smiles on their faces and grabbing for the tube... "Let's go again!" And it was very cool to realize that after a week, when we got back to Headquarters, we both felt glad to be 'home'. After living aboard since May, it finally feels like home! All in all, it was wonderful to have this bonus time with everyone...a GREAT summer!
But after 78 days of fun in the sun and on the water, it was time to move on and on Wednesday, May 20th, we pulled out of Heritage Harbor to resume our cruising life. Passing under the railroad bridge at the west end of Ottawa for the last time (at least for a few years anyway) was with mixed feelings...excited to once again be on our way, but realizing that we would be away from everyone for so long. We've been 'living' in Ottawa for over 2 months and have gotten kinda dug in.
The night before we left, we had 'one last evening' together in Ottawa with family (Bianchi’s pizza!) and then at our first stop on our way down the Illinois, my sister (Annie) & bro-in-law (Les) plus a couple of friends came for another 'last evening' together. Then, at our 2nd stop (in Peoria), my sister Jeanie & Terry met us on HQ and we walked across the street to a pub for one more 'last evening' together! (It's hard to let go!)

But on Friday morning Bob and I headed south again on the Illinois, knowing that it will just be the 2 of us for awhile. This is what we’ve been looking forward to…just cruising and checking out new places together. Tonight we’re in Grafton, IL. We have heard that Grafton is a great place to visit and so will stay a few days to check it out. (We’ve already spied a restaurant that serves Cajun food called “The Rotten Apple” that has definite possibilities!) We’re tied to a T-dock and it’s a little rocky-roley but promises to calm down tonight. But even with the little bit of rocking, this slip is way better than last night…tied to a work barge with 2 oil drums on deck burning something that was making black smoke. (I saw paint cans on fire on the barge at the base of the oil drums…not IN the drums! Yipes!) They put it out right away, so I think the lung damage was held to a minimum. Oddly enough, the overnight charge is the same for both places!
After getting the boat secure and checking in with the dock master, we put away our Illinois River charts and will get out the Mississippi River charts for awhile. But that’s not for a couple of days. Tomorrow (after the boat is washed and wiped down of course) we’ll take a walk into town to explore…maybe split a cheeseburger for lunch. That’s as far as we got in our plans for the future!

Keep reading the blog…we’ve got a new system for the pictures so you’ll see more from now on. Enjoy the rest of the summer…cold weather will be here soon enough. Well – for some of us anyway! Key West – here we come! -Debbie

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Log 19; Day 95; August 24, 2008; Grafton, IL.

Log 19
Day 95
Sunday, August 24, 2008

6:15 AM CDT
Location: Grafton, IL.
Weather: 73* with 61% humidity with light SE winds...87* and humid, 20% chance of rain predicted today.

Very overcast this morning here in Grafton, IL...but not much rain anywhere around. I’m sitting in the helm area looking at a beautiful view of where the Illinois River meets the Mississippi River (see picture). A picture does not do it justice and it reminds me of the White Cliffs of Dover in England. Beautiful white hills. Most people would not believe this is really Illinois.

Yesterday we untied the lines a little earlier than normal (6:25). The sun was not up yet...but it was light enough to travel and see the buoys. One issue was there was a very heavy dew and it was hard seeing through the windows and isinglass, so I ended up opening the isinglass in front of me and just let the water drip in the boat in order to see properly. I also used the wipers to help...but that was a pain. In about an hour or so the sun was up enough...and hot enough...to burn off the due. We still had to wipe the isinglass every few minutes, but in a hour or two it was fine.

About 9 miles from Beardstown was the LaGrange lock. I called the lock at 7:20; we entered the lock at 7:31; floated in the middle without lines; dropped 8 feet; and left the lock at 7:40. When we left the lock we could here a barge (Bob Smith) calling for any South bound traffic because he was coming North bound up the narrow channel and wanted to be sure no one was around. I called him on the radio and said I was leaving the lock and he told me to pass him “on the two whistle side”. (Note: When you are traveling on the rivers or narrow waterways boat captains keep track of all traffic near them...by announcing their position on a very regular basis...and then communicate with one another to decide how to safely pass. Many times they push their barges into the bank and try to move over and wait while another barge passes them because it is so narrow. They agree to pass on “the one whistle or two whistle side”. One whistle is my port (left as I face forward) and two whistles is the starboard side.) You can see the picture of the barge and how close we are. Many times we are only a few feet apart...and it really makes it safer and easier if you communicate with the barges...which I do.

From Beardstown to Grafton is 89 miles. Most of the time you feel like you are out in the middle of nowhere...which you are. Occasionally you pass a small town...but there were no docks or services of any kind until we got to Grafton. There was also no boat traffic...except for a few fisherman around each town. When we got a few miles from Grafton things changed considerably. Lots of boat traffic...many people anchored on each side of the channel and swimming, and a couple of sand bar areas with 40 or 50 boats around them. A beautiful (and hot) day and the boats were taking advantage of it. A nice cruise all the way at about 9 mph and we arrived about 4 pm. I was too hot and tired to clean the boat...so we got all the air conditioners turned on and relaxed for a while and then I cooked steaks on the boat grill. Great day.

Today...after washing the boat we plan to do a little exploring of Grafton. It looks like we can walk to the town, but who knows, we may get the folding bikes out. At this point we plan to stay here until Tuesday and then only go 18 miles to Alton, IL on the Mississippi and spend a couple of days there checking out the town.

BK.

From Beardstown to Grafton we saw lots of houses on stilts. Look at the windows and you can see how high the water was this sping. Almost all of the houses we saw had water lines similar to this one.
Here is the barge heading toward us as we leave the LaGrange lock
Here is the same barge...as we pass on "the two whistle side"
You can see how close we get in the narrow waterway
This the view out the back of our boat as we sit in Grafton Harbor (where the IL. River and the Mississippi Rivers come together.